Procedure for Preparing White Stocks
1. Rinse the bones in cold water (if desired, chicken,
veal, or beef bones may be blanched.)
This removes some impurities that cloud the stock or, if the bones are old,
give an off taste.
2. Place bones in stock pot and add cold water to cover.
Starting in cold water speeds extraction. Starting in hot water delays it,
because many proteins are soluble in cold water but not in hot.
3. Bring water to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Skim
the scum that comes to the surface.
Skimming is very important for a clear stock because the scum (which is fat
and coagulated protein) will cloud the stock if it is broken up and mixed back
into the liquid.
4. Add the chopped mirepoix and the herbs and spices.
Remember, the size you cut mirepoix depends on how long it is to be cooked.
5. Do not let the stock boil. Keep it at a low simmer.
Boiling makes the stock cloudy, because it breaks up solids into tiny
particles that get mixed into the stock.
6. Skim the surface as often as necessary during
cooking.
7. Keep the water level above the bones. Add more water
if the stock reduces below this level.
Cooking bones exposed to air will turn dark and thus darken or discolor the
stock. Also, they do not release flavor into the water if the water doesn't
touch them.
8. Simmer for as long as possible - at least 8
hours.
9. Skim the surface and strain off the stock through a
strainer lined with several layers of cheesecloth.
Adding a little cold water to the stock before skimming
stops the cooking and brings more fat and impurities to the surface.
10. Cool the stock as quickly as possible, as follows:
a. Set the pot in a sink with blocks or some other
objects under it. This is called venting. It allows cold water to flow under
the pot as well as around it.
b. Run cold water into the sink, but not higher than the level of the stock
or the pot will become unsteady. An overflow pipe keeps the water level right
and allows for constant circulation of cold water.
c. Stir the pot occasionally so that all the stock cools evenly. Hang a ladle
in the pot so that you can give it a quick stir whenever you pass the sink,
without actually taking extra time to do it.
Cooling stock quickly and properly is very important.
Improperly cooked stock can spoil in 6 to 8 hours, because it is a good
breeding ground for bacteria.
Do not set the hot stock in the refrigerator. All that heat and steam will
overload the refrigerator and may damage other perishables as well as the
equipment.
11. When cool, refrigerate the stock in covered
containers. Stock will keep 2 to 3 days if properly refrigerated.
Preparing Brown Stocks
The difference between brown stocks and white stocks is that the bones and
mirepoix are browned for the brown stock. This causes a few complications, as
you will see. But except for these differences, the procedure is essentially
the same.
Two methods for browning are given below:
Procedure for Preparing Brown Stocks
1. Do not wash or blanches the bones. The moisture would hinder browning.
2. Place the bones in a roasting pan in one layer and
brown in a hot oven 475°F (190°C) or higher. The bones must be well browned to
color the stock sufficiently. This takes over an hour. Some chefs prefer to
oil the bones lightly before browning.
3. When the bones are well browned, remove them from the
pan and place in stock pot. Cover with cold water and bring to a simmer.
4. Drain and reserve the fat from the roasting pan.
Deglaze the pan by adding water and stirring over heat until all the brown
drippings are dissolved or loosened. Add to stock pot.
5. While the stock is getting started, place the
mirepoix in the roasting pan with some of the reserved fat and brown the
vegetables well in the oven. (See alternative procedure below.)
6. When the water in the stock pot comes to a simmer,
skim and continue as for white stock.
7. Add the browned vegetables and the tomato product to
the stock pot. If desired, they may be held out until 3 to 4 hours before the
end of the cooking time.
8. Continue as for white stock.
Alternative Procedure
The mirepoix may be browned with the bones. When the bones are half browned,
add the mirepoix to the pan and continue roasting until bones and vegetables
are browned. Tomato may be added toward the end of browning time, but exercise
caution--tomato puree burns easily.
Some chefs use this method because it eliminates some
steps. Others prefer to brown the mirepoix separately so that it can be added
to the stock later in the cooking time.
